Note: The original manuscript arrived written entirely in Pigeonese, so the editorial team has translated it into Japanese, and then into English—and we had a native pigeon double-check the text, just in case.

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Hello from Yatsushiro! I’m Mary—also known locally as Hatomary, your friendly neighborhood pigeon correspondent (yes, really).

Yatsushiro, the town I call home, is blessed with mountains, rivers, fields, and most importantly—an abundant sea. The Yatsushiro Sea is especially known for its delicious fish, and the locals here have developed pretty refined palates because of it.

So when an eatery manages to consistently impress us seafood-savvy Yatsushiro folks, you know it’s something special.

Let me introduce you to one such place: a shop called Ichigyo Ichie, and its incredible in-store lunch spot—Kaizoku Shokudō Ichirin, or “Pirate Kitchen Ichirin”.

Ichigyo Ichie (一魚一恵): Where Every Fish Is a Once-in-a-Lifetime Encounter

Located just before Yatsushiro Post Office, near Yatsushiro Shrine, Ichigyo Ichie is a specialty fish shop with a unique concept. This second branch offers not only top-quality local fish for purchase, but also dine-in lunches crafted with utmost care by a passionate owner.

First, about the shop’s name:
Ichigyo Ichie is a play on the Japanese idiom ichigo ichie (一期一会), meaning “one time, one meeting.” The owner, Mr. Ogawa, explained:

“It’s about honoring the life of each fish. The fish you eat today is unique—it won’t be the same tomorrow, even if it’s the same species. Maybe it should be grilled today, simmered tomorrow, or even served raw. I want people to appreciate each fish as an individual life, and taste it with respect.”

Lunch That Changes With the Tides

At Pirate Kitchen Ichirin, lunch is always a surprise. The menu changes daily depending on what the owner sources fresh from the sea.

The menu is written on a whiteboard each day.

On the day I visited:

• Deep-fried local red stingray set – ¥800 + tax
• Tsumuburi donburi (rice bowl) – ¥1,000 + tax

Naturally, I was torn. The assorted sashimi bowl looked tempting. So did the grilled fish set. But I’d never heard of Tsumuburi before, so I had to ask.

“Is it some kind of yellowtail?” I ventured.

“Totally different species,” Mr. Ogawa replied with a smile. “It’s not well known—more of a ‘minor league’ fish. But that’s exactly what I like about it.”

He explained that many delicious fish are still underutilized, simply because they’re unfamiliar. His mission? To shine a spotlight on these lesser-known varieties and bring them to life through thoughtful preparation.

So I ordered the Tsumuburi bowl—and wow.

Just look at this.

The glossy slices of fish shimmer in the light. The presentation alone whets your appetite.

And the flavor? Clean, slightly fatty, with a firm bite that leaves you wanting more. I normally eat small portions, but I polished it off in five minutes flat. Even Mr. Ogawa looked surprised.

Even Mr. Ogawa looked surprised.

“I just want people to say it tastes good,” he said simply.

That’s why, although the prices are reasonable, he doesn’t single-mindedly use that as the way he promotes his business. He doesn’t want these fish—creatures that were swimming in the sea just this morning—to be reduced to a number on a price tag.

Especially after events like the Kumamoto and Tōhoku earthquakes, he feels even more strongly that life should be honored—not wasted. Every fish he serves is his way of giving thanks.

Ask Anything About Fish—Seriously

On the whiteboard inside the shop, you’ll also find a friendly guide titled “How to Use Ichigyo Ichie”:

1. Take your time browsing the fish inside the store.
2. Ask how to enjoy them—sashimi, simmered, grilled with salt, in hot pot, etc.
3. For sashimi, check the blackboard; feel free to ask the staff for their recommendations.
4. As everything is freshly cut to order, it may take a little time. Please wait at an open table.
5. The staff are happy to answer any questions about how to prepare the fish.

Despite being modest and shy in everyday life, Mr. Ogawa becomes animated when talking about seafood. He even has a message on the whiteboard in the shop: “Ask me anything about fish!”

And before I left, he showed me a photo of their signature dish—the Tokusen Kaisen-don (special seafood bowl). Picture this: thick-cut sashimi slices glistening atop a bed of rice, so fresh they look like they’re still dancing.

You really can’t go wrong here. Whether you choose the reliable favorite or take a chance on the day’s special, you’re guaranteed a good meal—made with care, and full of respect for the fish.

If You’re in Yatsushiro…

Ichigyo Ichie also takes orders for New Year’s party platters (o-sechi style) made with fresh seafood. Reservations open until December 20, with pick-up before the shop closes for the year around December 30. They reopen after the holidays on January 7.

If you’re in southern Kumamoto and want a truly local seafood experience, this humble little pirate kitchen should be on your map.

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The above was translated and adapted from an article on our Japanese-language sister website ALT Kumamoto. For the original content, see the article below!

キミは本当に旨い魚を食べたことがあるか？ お魚セレクトショップ『一魚一恵』こだわり店主のこだわり食堂《海賊食堂　一鱗》